Jeeves Lined And Raised Leather Belts
The details are not the details, they are the design.
- Charles Eames -
A belt can be made in many ways, from a single, thick piece of leather for a casual look, such as with bridle leather belts, to two pieces of leather that are glued together. Another option is to glue a strip of material, skived along the edges, on the inside of the belt, making the belt raised in the middle.
While this might seem fairly simple, making a lined and raised belt by hand is a difficult process to master. There are a lot of factors that need to be considered, such as which material goes on the inside, how the belt will be cut to ensure an even edge along the entire length, how to ensure the suppleness of a laminated belt, etc.
In this post, we will explain in detail how the lined and raised look of the belts in our Jeeves belt collection is achieved. To know how the entire belt is made, we invite you to read up on our article about our Hungarian leather manufacturer, who has been making leather goods by hand for over 3 decades.
For our belts, we needed to make some important decisions. One of these was what we could use an interlining, or the piece of material that goes between the face and the lining of the belt. In a worst-case scenario, brands use a piece of special-to-the-trade cardboard for this. A slightly better alternative is to use a fabric like material that consists of woven strands of nylon. It is better resistant to tears than cardboard, but since these are woven fibers of nylon, it lacks the correct thickness to give the belt a nice profile. We also could not justify adding a synthetic material to something as beautiful as a handmade leather belt.
We believe that an all leather belt not only is more supple and durable, it also gives the belt a more elegant profile since it can be skived and tapered towards the edges. This give the belt a real luxurious look.
Manufacturing a lined and raised belt starts with cutting out the different strips of material. For our belts, we only use full grain leathers, for the lining, interlining and outer. Once each strap has been cut out, the middle strap is skived along the edge to ensure a smooth and even taper.
The leather straps are then lined up, smeared with glue on both sides and layered on top of each other. A specially designed tool that consists of two metal rolls pushes the sides tightly together, and the belt is left to dry.
After the belt has dried, it is cut to its final width, the sides are stitched and the edges are burnished. To see the entire process of how our leather belts are made, from stitching the sides to sanding, dying and burnishing the edges not once, but twice to achieve a smooth finish, we invite you read the entire story here:
When we have a look at the side profile of a leather belt, this is what we see. Notice how the middle layer of leather tapers towards the edge, and sits between the facing and the lining.